tooslohatch
11-20-2011, 10:00 PM
I’m going to test the waters on my pride and joy. It’s a 1991 Civic hatchback. The body has original paint and 135,xxx miles. I have had this car since I was 15 and have always taken the absolute best care of it. The oil has always been changed every couple hundred miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. Countless hours of tuning have gone into this car as well. As of now the car makes around 420whp on our Mustang Dyno. That number calculated for the Dynojet users is about 580whp. This car can (and was for my time in high school) be driven every day without a problem. I have also driven it to the Waynesburg Flashlight Drags (an hour and 40 minute drive) several times, raced it all day long, and driven it home without a problem. I also drove it out to PRP (about a two hour drive), raced, and drove it home without any issues. That time at PRP was my first time ever at a track and unfortunately it showed in my times. My best time was 11.73 at 125 mph. My 60-ft’s were terrible the whole night with the best being that run’s 1.986. The car was on Hoosier D.O.T.’s and had a full interior. With more seat time the car will easily cut a 1.6 60-ft putting it deep into the 11’s or even high 10’s. Remember, this car is and always has raced in full street trim. Even with the roll bar the back seats remain in the car. This car was scaled at 2176lbs before the roll bar (estimated at another 80lbs). The car has the redline set at 8,600 (I planned to go up to 9000 after converting to E85). The full-throttle shift is set at 7,000 and works perfect every time. This is done by a switch on the clutch pedal that cuts the ignition when the pedal is depressed allowing the syncro's to line up in the trans. This past spring I installed a 6-point roll bar with removable door bars that were designed in AutoCAD. This not only allows the driver and passenger the get in and out of the car easily, but allows both occupants to use the factory seat belts rather than uncomfortable racing harnesses. Although the driver seat is equipped with an RCi racing harness, it can be tucked away for normal driving.
The bad: As with any 20 year old Honda, there is rust. When I got the car, I repaired the small amounts of rust along the rockers and lower quarter panels. It looks very presentable but is not 100% perfect. Right now there is one spot left above the rear passenger wheel. The inside of the hatch is also quite rusted out. It’s not visible from the outside of the car and won’t be for some time so I never bothered with it. Also, as with any old car, the suspension bushings are really on their last leg hence the clunking in the front end. They don’t make it unsafe to drive but it rather annoying.
This car is extremely nice! I have yet to see another clean EF in the north east. The original paint still shines right up. The car gets noticed by everyone wherever I go. I have been very meticulous with this car and no shop has ever touched this car. I really do not want to get rid of it at all but I have no need for it anymore. I have two options if there is any interest: you can buy absolutely everything out of this car to make yours make 420whp. That includes absolutely everything in the Block, Head, Turbo System, and Transmission list for $4000. The second option is buying the entire car as it sits for $5,500. The bike rack and E-boost2 are not included (although, if you want the bike rack we could work something out). Like stated at the beginning, I am testing the waters here. Please let me know if you’re interested! Thanks!
-Micah
(I don't have all too many recent pictures. Most of you have seen it though. The only thing different is a Yakima Raptor bike rail and the car is another 1/2" lower)
Block:
1998 B18C1
Stock sleeves
Wiseco forged 81.5mm moly-coated pistons (9.2:1 CR)
Eagle H-beam rods (for a B18A1)
Factory B18A1 crankshaft
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
Clevite single-grooved race bearings
Factory block girdle
Felpro head gasket
Head:
1998 P72 (GSR)
3-angle valve job
Genuine ITR cams (40,000 miles)
Skunk 2 adjustable cam gears
Supertech 85lb dual valvesprings (intake and exhaust)
Titanium retainers
Turbo System:
HX35/40 hybrid turbocharger
- 9cm2 turbine
- 7-blade compressor wheel
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold
70mm throttle-body
DSM 1G BOV (uncrushed)
Turbonetics Delta II wastegate (10psi spring)
Custom stainless turbo manifold
Custom 3” downpipe and exhaust (no muffler or cat)
Custom intercooler piping
- 2.5” aluminumized steel hot side
- Spearco intercooler
- 2.75” aluminum cold side
- Silicon couplers and t-bolt clamps
Walbro 255lph high-output in-tank fuel pump (10-guage power supply wire)
1000cc Precision injectors
Transmission:
1990 Integra YS1 cable transmission
Competition Clutch 4-puck sprung disk
Competition Clutch “Stage 5” Xtreme heavy duty pressure plate
OBX LSD
Remanufactured axles
GM Syncro-mesh
Energy Suspension shift linkage bushings
B&M Dual bend shift lever
Custom shift knob
Chassis:
Custom roll bar with removable door bars (back seats still remain)
No name coil sleeves
2.5” top-hat extensions in rear
Acura Integra front and rear shocks
Brand new master cylinder
Brand new rear cylinders
Custom-made front cross member and traction bars
Custom DGS Type-3 grounding cables
15x7” ET30 Rota RB wheels
195/50/15 tires
Aluminum dual-core half rad
Polyurethane motor mounts
Electrical:
OBD-1 jumper harness
P28 ECU chipped for Crome
GM 3-bar MAP sensor
Custom full throttle shift clutch pedal button (ignition cut at 7000rpm when clutch is depressed)
Full throttle activated nitrous button
Nitrous arming switch (currently wired for boost group reset for boost controller)
10-guage wire to high amperage fuel pump
Innovative wide-band O2 sensor with Innovative digital gauge
Auto-meter boost gauge
5” slim tachometer with shift light
Body:
MK3 Jetta VR6 front lip
OEM Honda rear mudflaps
Pictures: (links to my Facebook albums. You must be logged in to Facebook to view for some reason.)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.89071009128.100199.829974128&type=1
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150479747429129.460534.829974128&type=1
The bad: As with any 20 year old Honda, there is rust. When I got the car, I repaired the small amounts of rust along the rockers and lower quarter panels. It looks very presentable but is not 100% perfect. Right now there is one spot left above the rear passenger wheel. The inside of the hatch is also quite rusted out. It’s not visible from the outside of the car and won’t be for some time so I never bothered with it. Also, as with any old car, the suspension bushings are really on their last leg hence the clunking in the front end. They don’t make it unsafe to drive but it rather annoying.
This car is extremely nice! I have yet to see another clean EF in the north east. The original paint still shines right up. The car gets noticed by everyone wherever I go. I have been very meticulous with this car and no shop has ever touched this car. I really do not want to get rid of it at all but I have no need for it anymore. I have two options if there is any interest: you can buy absolutely everything out of this car to make yours make 420whp. That includes absolutely everything in the Block, Head, Turbo System, and Transmission list for $4000. The second option is buying the entire car as it sits for $5,500. The bike rack and E-boost2 are not included (although, if you want the bike rack we could work something out). Like stated at the beginning, I am testing the waters here. Please let me know if you’re interested! Thanks!
-Micah
(I don't have all too many recent pictures. Most of you have seen it though. The only thing different is a Yakima Raptor bike rail and the car is another 1/2" lower)
Block:
1998 B18C1
Stock sleeves
Wiseco forged 81.5mm moly-coated pistons (9.2:1 CR)
Eagle H-beam rods (for a B18A1)
Factory B18A1 crankshaft
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
Clevite single-grooved race bearings
Factory block girdle
Felpro head gasket
Head:
1998 P72 (GSR)
3-angle valve job
Genuine ITR cams (40,000 miles)
Skunk 2 adjustable cam gears
Supertech 85lb dual valvesprings (intake and exhaust)
Titanium retainers
Turbo System:
HX35/40 hybrid turbocharger
- 9cm2 turbine
- 7-blade compressor wheel
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold
70mm throttle-body
DSM 1G BOV (uncrushed)
Turbonetics Delta II wastegate (10psi spring)
Custom stainless turbo manifold
Custom 3” downpipe and exhaust (no muffler or cat)
Custom intercooler piping
- 2.5” aluminumized steel hot side
- Spearco intercooler
- 2.75” aluminum cold side
- Silicon couplers and t-bolt clamps
Walbro 255lph high-output in-tank fuel pump (10-guage power supply wire)
1000cc Precision injectors
Transmission:
1990 Integra YS1 cable transmission
Competition Clutch 4-puck sprung disk
Competition Clutch “Stage 5” Xtreme heavy duty pressure plate
OBX LSD
Remanufactured axles
GM Syncro-mesh
Energy Suspension shift linkage bushings
B&M Dual bend shift lever
Custom shift knob
Chassis:
Custom roll bar with removable door bars (back seats still remain)
No name coil sleeves
2.5” top-hat extensions in rear
Acura Integra front and rear shocks
Brand new master cylinder
Brand new rear cylinders
Custom-made front cross member and traction bars
Custom DGS Type-3 grounding cables
15x7” ET30 Rota RB wheels
195/50/15 tires
Aluminum dual-core half rad
Polyurethane motor mounts
Electrical:
OBD-1 jumper harness
P28 ECU chipped for Crome
GM 3-bar MAP sensor
Custom full throttle shift clutch pedal button (ignition cut at 7000rpm when clutch is depressed)
Full throttle activated nitrous button
Nitrous arming switch (currently wired for boost group reset for boost controller)
10-guage wire to high amperage fuel pump
Innovative wide-band O2 sensor with Innovative digital gauge
Auto-meter boost gauge
5” slim tachometer with shift light
Body:
MK3 Jetta VR6 front lip
OEM Honda rear mudflaps
Pictures: (links to my Facebook albums. You must be logged in to Facebook to view for some reason.)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.89071009128.100199.829974128&type=1
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150479747429129.460534.829974128&type=1